030. Nigel Cabourn and Heritage Research

New in this month are two spring jackets from Nigel Cabourn and Heritage Research.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of my first pieces of SS11 to arrive and Mr Cabourn has not disappointed. As the name suggests,the Aircraft Jacket draws influence from aviation design, made to withstand the elements while providing maximum comfort.

This Button Down Placket version is a novel reworking of this brilliant jacket. Made from Cotton Cloth coated in refined Oil, a technique developed by British fisherman, this is a material which Nigel has worked with with since 1979 due to it’s quality and durability.

  • 100% Natural Oil Coated Cotton Construction
  • High Stance Collar with Adjustable Fixed Hood
  • RiRi Zip With Covered Button Down Placket
  • Under-Arm Ventilation
  • Two Large Zip-Closure Front Pockets
  • Made in England

 

 

 

Second, is the Burnt Orange Longline Parka from Heritage Research. A new version of the staple Longline Parka made from Burnt Orange British Millerain wax cotton. The jacket features an adjusted cut and fit, two large Military bellows pockets, a signature military grade brass RiRi zipper, unlined with all seams bound in English cotton Cambric, button up storm flap, high fastening neck, adjustable cuffs, fitted peaked hood and leather adjusters on hood and hem. Internally, the jacket has brown button in/out braces to aid carrying the jacket when not wearing it. The Longline Parka has been developed with elements taken from both 60 40 mountain parkas and a classic Maine fishermans jacket.

 

 

 

 

The jacket does not disappoint as previous HR Longlines have varying cuts, this one is spot on. The Burnt Orange colourway is an exclusive to Present, London but is also available in Navy, Yellow, Red, Blue, Denim, and a special in a biege Ventile.

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029. Uniform Wares

I’ve been looking for a second watch of simple design. I love the Manometro’s by Giuliano Mazzuoli, but they are far too expensive for a 2nd watch (I’m not a collector). So in searching for a similar design with a far lesser RRP, I found the Uniform Wares Range. The 200 Series ticked all the boxes and less than £250 = Winner!

This is the 200 series watch from Uniform Wares – seen here in a 40mm, aircraft grade brushed stainless steel case with tan calfskin strap and Swiss made ETA calendar movement.

Other detail includes a 316L stainless steel case, Swiss made ETA 956.412 movement +/- 20 sec per month accuracy, hardened mineral crystal face, 5 ATM water resistance, 54 month battery life and 1 year manufacturer’s warranty.

The 200 Series Calendar Wristwatch is the second collection from Uniform Wares. Designed as a continuation of the 100 Series Wristwatch, this unisex timepiece references the classic engineering of machine gauges and industrial equipment used in the leather working process.

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028. Transmission | Joy Division

Joy Division’s Transmission by Playmobile. Genius!

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027. Terrace Production

Terrace Production is James Benton’s new clothing brand focussing on British-made, quality garments. This first collection is entirely hand-crafted in England.

Ignore the brand name for the moment, founded in 2008, Terrace Production is a label that is yet to formally launch online. There are pieces doing the rounds, but difficult to track down at this stage. The website is imminent and should offer a decent selection of product.

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Those images that are available show a decent selection of outerwear, utilising high-end materials like waxed cottons, ventile, leathers etc. In the main, the designs follow traditional cuts and shapes, offering Macs, Field Jackets, Polo shirts, Chinos etc.

Shots above include:

|027A| Terrace blue weather proof mac with two way riri zip and leather detailing to collar and pockets, worn with olive terrace tapered chinos.

|027B| Khaki ventile box pocket jacket with riri zips.

|027C| Goose down ventile gillet with italian leather detailing to pockets and chest.

|027D| Blue wax 5 pocket field jacket with riri zips.

|027E| Classic Ventile mac with two pockets and high stance collar.

Blue Waxed Field Jacket

The Field Jacket (right) in particular looks to be a beauty. The design is not dissimilar to Massimo Osti’s, CP Company Mille Miglia (minus the goggles), which is no bad thing. These are not high production run pieces, which I guess will mean they’ll carry a price tag to match. It looks like a promising start and I hope it stays that way. Back to the brand name, my fear is that a certain type of customer may latch onto this and result in it becoming ubiquitous, thus ultimately quality being compromised to match demand, ending as a run of the mill brand.

Interview with James Benton

Terrace Production, coming soon!

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026. Sale Purchases – Dec 2010

I have had quite a successful sales season with the following pick ups. As usual the majority have come without leaving the house and at an average discount of 45% below RRP. Happy days!

026.A| Garbstore Mountain Crop Parka


The philosophy of the Garbstore label is richly ensconced in the history of clothing produced after the Second World War and draws influence from what can be coined “Unfamiliar Vintage”, familiar garments that reference the past but with a modern edge. In essence pieces are re-imagined and made “historically new”.

Mountain style All season Parka, cropped model. Half diamond style hood construction with hard peak. 4 front pockets with side zip entry on lower pockets. both stud and button fastening. Double Talon vintage slider zipper. Garbstore Leather fix toggles on both hood chord and hem chord. Adjustable cuffs, Stud closing storm fly on front. 100% Cotton

026.B| Universal Works Babycord Shirt


Universal Works make clothes that are not over-designed, but well cut and craftsman-made, not mass-produced. From a background of great British working clothes and outdoor clothes, they use honest, natural fabrics and yarns, often using up dead stock fabrics that would otherwise be wasted.

This cotton shirt is made from a fine corduroy cotton and features full length placket with button fastening, double button single cuffs with herringbone taping, two chest pockets – one button closureflap pocket, the other open with pencil slot , back yoke and a quite unusual curved hem front with square hem back.

026.C| Engineered Garments Cord Jacket


Engineered Garments took its brand name from a pattern maker hired to draft the first round of patterns. She claimed that the clothes were not designed but engineered due to the vast amount of detailing involved in each garment, to which Daiki Suzuki agreed. Details from American sportswear, outdoor clothing and military uniform are all included in the collection and give Engineered Garments unique and practical detailing missing in much clothing today.

Khaki Corduroy Fireman Jacket. Double front jacket with a large round collar with a button throat tab and a detachable drawstring hood. 2 button fastening chest pockets and one pocket on the lower back, adjustable cuffs and a curved, tailed hem. 100% cotton. Made in New York.

026.D| A.P.C Striped Knitted Hoody

Standing for Atelier de Production et de Crèation (which translates to the creation and production of clothing), APC has an understated cool style and is known for its clean and classic basics with a subtle twist.

A simple Navy Breton striped hooded jumper with drawstring hood and branded cuffs/hem.

 

 

026.E| Grenson Lee Shoes

Producing Footwear since 1866 originally under the moniker, ‘Green & Son’, Grenson are still a leading brand in quality English footwear. Registered as Grenson in 1913, they were one of the first brand names to be registered in the UK. All Grenson shoes are “Goodyear Welted”, a process invented in the 1800’s in England that is a time consuming way of making shoes, but means that the product lasts longer than any other type of shoes. It also means that the shoe can re-soled many times over making them a wonderful investment.

These are a simple Tan, Derby design with Oxford print leather.

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025. Proper Mag – Issue 10

Proper Magazine – Issue 10: Proper has been going for nearly 5 years now. In that time it has developed from what was really a Fanzine (Issues 1-9), to a “Proper Mag”. The transformation is light years from the early issues. Articles centre on clothing (not to be mistaken with ‘fashion’) and Music, with the occasional football reference – great ingredients!

Its the perfect size at approx A5, to stuff into a bag or large coat pocket and enjoy the witty and very informative writing. Highlights from Issue 10 include interviews with Garbstore’s Ian Paley and Post O’Alls, Takeshi Ohfuchi.

Companies such as Post O’Alls, Garbstore, Albam, Norse Projects, Universal Works, Heritage Research and the like are featured in current and past issues, alongside articles pondering why Simon Cowell might not actually be a twat. Having now clocked 10 issues, the team are preparing a Best of Issues 1-10 for 2011. A great way to catch the edited highlights.

The magazine is stocked by respected clothiers such as, Peggs & Son, Number Six London, The Garbstore, Hip Leeds, Oi Polloi and Bureau Belfast. Neil Summers, Mark Smith and the team have produced a fantastic read which is supported by the website, go take a look….  Proper Mag

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024. Noel Gallagher v Adidas

Back in 2002, Noel Gallagher gave an interview to Oki-Ni on the subject of Trainer Culture. Known to be a keen collector of Adidas trainers, the interview is a great insight into someone who was into the scene when it took off in the late 70’s, but now has the means to source deadstock rarities and build an impressive collection.

Here’s a short excerpt:

Interviewer – Did you actually collect trainers yourself in the eighties?
NG – Well the only reason I collect them now, my missus has got a theory about this, she fancies herself as a bit of a psychologist. She goes “You’ve got all the money in the world, what is it with these manky pairs of old ****ing adidas trainers you’re bringing home, you’ll come in the door and you’ll go (smiling) “****ing guess what I bought today?” and she goes “what” and I’ll go “look at these” and she’ll go ” they’re ****ing falling to bits.” She reckons it’s because when we were all on the dole and we couldn’t afford to buy them, and we’d see them in the shops and you’d just think “****ing hell man” and there was no such thing as a second hand culture or second hand clothes- second hand clothes were for tramps, it was a mod thing, everything had to be brand new, so there was no second hand culture then. She said it’s probably because you grew up on the dole looking through these shop windows and now you’ve got the money to buy them it doesn’t matter if they’re in or out of fashion. It’s all the ones you go back to like the adidas “Highway” you think I could never ****ing afford them, but I’m gonna buy them now.

 

Click link to download the full article: Interview

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